in the U.S., there’s a false idea that certain choices around food aren’t political and also that U.S. cuisine is big enough to hold all the foods of the world. This melds into notions around how the market and technology are inevitable and infinite, and thus can save us from any crises. It’s not gastronativism, but gastroexpansionism: If U.S. cuisine can encompass everything, there is nothing to protect, whether that’s biodiversity or cultural significance. It can grow into anything it has to be, even if that’s lab meat and Soylent.
On U.S. Cuisine
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